All Things Must Pass

Now the darkness only stays at nighttime
In the morning, it will fade away
Daylight is good at arriving at the right time
It's not always going to be this gray

All things must pass
All things must pass away

-- George Harrison (1970)

surf progression

The idea that you can improve never goes away....  Surfing's evolved.  The boards have evolved.  I'm actually stronger now, and I have more control over my technique.  But I have too many injuries.   It's super frustrating because there are some days I don't want to surf because I'm in pain.  But I still feel, at this age right now, my best surfing is still ahead of me. 

I grew up idolizing Tom Curren.  I wanted to surf like him.  I wanted to hold my arms like him.  Then at some point I realized I'm not Tom Curren.  I have a different approach.  I think differently.  And if you're trying to be someone else, you're not offering the world what you have.  
 
-- Kelly Slater (11x World Champion) 2017

daydreaming

Think of a place I would go.
To where the sycamore grow.
I’m daydreaming
And oh, if you knew what it meant to me
To be where the air was so clear.
Oh, if you knew what it meant to me.
Anywhere but here.
-- Nona Marie Invie / Marshall LaCount (Dark Dark Dark) 2010

born into a light

for everything that's wrong, there is a worried man,
there is a reason why. and we just don't understand,
but well, you've gotta' keep the faith.

for everyone alone, i wish you faith and hope,
all the strength to cope, to be your own best friend,
have confidence, and keep the faith.

be patient -- the past is just a memory.
and heal your mind, you'll heal inside eventually.
we were born into a light

-- ryan adams (2008)