The idea that you can improve never goes away.... Surfing's evolved. The boards have evolved. I'm actually stronger now, and I have more control over my technique. But I have too many injuries. It's super frustrating because there are some days I don't want to surf because I'm in pain. But I still feel, at this age right now, my best surfing is still ahead of me.
I grew up idolizing Tom Curren. I wanted to surf like him. I wanted to hold my arms like him. Then at some point I realized I'm not Tom Curren. I have a different approach. I think differently. And if you're trying to be someone else, you're not offering the world what you have.
-- Kelly Slater (11x World Champion) 2017
Thursday, July 27, 2017
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