surf progression

The idea that you can improve never goes away....  Surfing's evolved.  The boards have evolved.  I'm actually stronger now, and I have more control over my technique.  But I have too many injuries.   It's super frustrating because there are some days I don't want to surf because I'm in pain.  But I still feel, at this age right now, my best surfing is still ahead of me. 

I grew up idolizing Tom Curren.  I wanted to surf like him.  I wanted to hold my arms like him.  Then at some point I realized I'm not Tom Curren.  I have a different approach.  I think differently.  And if you're trying to be someone else, you're not offering the world what you have.  
 
-- Kelly Slater (11x World Champion) 2017